Adventures at home, abroad, and online

Month: July 2008 Page 2 of 4

Separation Barrier

Banksy 2
Banksy

Walked along the wall in Bethlehem today, and took some pictures of the graffiti that covers it. Most of it is actually by internationals, not local Palestinians. Still, I am quite enamored of the Banksy stencils.

The impact on the neighborhood is hard to overstate. There are places where the wall curves around a single house, encasing it on three sides. Any businesses near it are closed, and the streets in Bethlehem are quiet because the tourist trade cannot reasonably function under these retrictions.

Shatter Tower
Dove
Reduce, Reuse, Resist

In Palestine

Made to it Jared on Sunday afternoon, and have been enjoying a slightly slower pace since then. We went to a hippy farm party the first night, and enjoyed roast chicken under the stars. Yesterday I did some needed visa acquiring and ticket booking in Ramallah, and visited Arafat’s tomb. At night we drove to the Dead Sea, where we floated in peace, despite the nasty water and mosquitoes. Today we walked around an abandoned military base near Jared’s apartment, until he was called away by news of a new attack in Jerusalem. Being an intrepid journalist, he responds when duty calls. Still, it’s great to spend some time with him in his new turf.

Arafat
Jared got mudded
Dead Sea lounging
Abandoned Israeli base

The plan now is to go to Lebanon on Saturday, spend a few days there and then try the border with Syria. Lonely Planet says that anyone with a valid Lebanese visa can cross the Lebanon-Syria border and get a Syrian visa issued there, for an extra fee. This assuages one of my concerns, so it looks like we will start our “axis of evil” tour after all.

Crossing the King Hussein Bridge

Snack shack

I went all the way from Amman to the Israeli border this morning, my taxi driver going like a maniac (even more so than normal), only to find out that the border is closed at 11 on Shabbat. I did think of this and looked it up in my book beforehand, but the information was old and things seem to change unexpectedly in this part of the world. So, the border was closed, and there is apparently nowhere to stay in the vicinity. Back in another taxi, paying the exorbitant fee again, and back to Amman. I go back to the same hotel, which was quite serviceable last night, but they are full. They offer me a tent on the roof, which has the advantage of being both cheap and airy. I slept with the window open last night, so it shouldn’t be a significant difference. Anyways, I’ll get to Jared tomorrow, and have another good story about borders and bureaucracy to tell. Now I need to figure out what to do for a day; I’m sort of ruined and mosqued out. Maybe there’s a theater in town showing The Dark Knight…

Cappadocia

With three days left in Turkey, Hannah and I decided to throw our budget to the wind and fly to Cappadocia. The land of beautiful horses in Hittite, it’s also the sight of some incredible Dr. Seussian landscapes. Fourth century Christians carved hundreds of caves in the soft tufa stone, as protection from Arab raiders. Hoteliers have continued the tradition today, providing tourists with a place to stay that remains cool in the summer sun. We actually took a tour for this part, so we felt a little out of control, but given time and transportation limitations it made more sense. Besides, we got to meet some fellow travelers, albeit all older than we are, and share stories of our journey.

Arriving in Kayseri
Underground City

We flew to Kayseri Tuesday morning, and were picked up and taken to our hotel in Urgup. It was a beautiful place, with a real Arabian nights vibe. We had enough space to entertain, and plenty of Turkish music video and fashion channels on TV. We went for a short hike in the morning, and then toured an underground city with room for 15,000 temporary inhabitants. There were networks of these things, and tunnels of many kilometers connecting them. Not the most comfortable place to stay, but it beats being killed.

Wednesay we toured an open air museum of various churches, with some more incredible frescoes. While some are well preserved, others were badly damaged during the iconoclast era, when depiction of human figures was deemed a sin. Still, there’s plenty of Jesuses left. In accordance with the great church-icecream pact, I now owe Hannah many rounds at Ben and Jerry’s.

In a Monastary
Angel Gibreel
Hand painted pottery

Today we flew back to Istanbul, and Hannah caught a flight to Paris. It’s sad to see her go, as we’ve had a great time together. We’ve seen great sights, stormed castles on two continents, and made it to the Orient and back alive. Quite a bit better than the historical inspiration for our trip, the actual Children’s Crusade. We were not cut to bits by the natives, but managed to get from the Vatican to Istanbul (not Constantinople), and back in one piece.

I now travel onward to Jared in Jordan, then to Lebanon, and hopefully to James in India. This assumes that my visa situation works out, and that the political situation doesn’t further deteriorate. The Lebanese couple we met on our tour of Cappadocia were pleased that we were coming to their country, until I told them where we planned to go. Then they ‘forgot’ to give me their contact information, and told me that ‘peaceful tourism’ was more up their alley. Well, I agree, but having done enough historical sights for a while, I’d like to see what the current situation is like. I’ll post reactions from Lebanon as internet access allows. Until then, dear reader, I am off.

Istanbul

Today we took a ferry up the Bosporus, to see more of the outlying areas. It took most of the day, but we did get to storm a castle overlooking the Black Sea, and Hannah got to set foot in Asia.

Bosporus Bridge
Fishing village
Netmaking
The Black Sea
Old guys selling shells

Page 2 of 4

Powered by WordPress & Theme by Anders Norén