Josh Levinger

Gulf of Slides

— In: Outdoors Tags: , ,

Went skiing in Gulf of Slides on Mt. Washington. Not quite as steep as Tuckerman’s, but not nearly as crowded. Had the whole thing almost to ourselves, and got three great runs in. Slope is about 35 degrees, and vertical about 800ft. Doesn’t seem that hard, but climbing up in crampons was badass. And now I have a sweet sunglasses tan, and am fantastically behind on work. Got to have your priorities in order.

Self portrait with left slide

Self portrait with left slide

Self portrait with crazy hair

Self portrait with crazy hair

Justin approaching top.

Justin approaching top.

Crampons are so cool

Crampons are so cool

Streamcrossing. Don't try this at home.

Streamcrossing. Don’t try this at home.

Apr 20, 2005

Hiking in Sierras

— In: Outdoors Tags: , ,

Hiked to beautiful Dardanelles Lake with John and Jennifer. It was wonderful to spend time with them, and to be in the high country again. Living in California looks better every day.

Lake Dardanelles

Lake Dardanelles

Swimming

Swimming

Sunset

Sunset

Hike out

Hike out

Big Meadow

Big Meadow

Jul 4, 2006

Partington Canyon

— In: Outdoors Tags: , ,

Exploring the lesser known hikes around Big Sur, found Partington Canyon. The Tan Bark trail ascends through a foggy redwood grove, then steeply up to the Tin House (said to be built for Roosevelt, as a quiet spot to write his memoirs). Although I was ready for a swim after climbing 2,000ft in 4 miles, it’s way too cold. Don’t let the color fool you, this isn’t the Tropics.

Tan Bark Redwoods

Tan Bark Redwoods

Fallen Log Bridge

Fallen Log Bridge

View from Tin House

View from Tin House

At Julia Pfieffer Sur SP

At Julia Pfieffer Sur SP

Jul 10, 2006

Big Pimpin at Big Jay

— In: Outdoors Tags: ,

Dismayed by my datelessness as Valentines Day approached, I decided to reaffirm my masculinity by going skiing this weekend. Sharing a romantic campfire with another man did the trick.

in their natural habitat

in their natural habitat

I left early Saturday morning for the drive to Cannon with Yeuhi. Like on most of my MITOC trips, I’d never met him before, but we settled into a rhythm quickly. We met some other folks at Cannon, and enjoyed the bluebird day. The snow was fair, but my new skis were sweet. My legs were shot by around 2, so I headed to the deck for a drink in the sun. Not a bad way to end the day.

Leaving Cannon, we headed to Camelot to stay the night. We had planned on meeting Martin, a keyholder, there; but he didn’t arrive until after 9. We started a fire, and enjoyed the flickering warmth and polished off a sixpack of Sam Adams. Alcohol is a vasodilator, and so non-ideal for really cold weather, but it hit the spot and made the time pass more enjoyably.

Jay Pan

Jay Pan

Woke bitterly early on Sunday to drive to Jay. Met Chris and (another) Josh in the parking lot. We found the trailhead and skinned up two miles to Big Jay. It’s right across an untracked valley from the ski resort, and it was full of the most powder I’ve ever seen in New England (3-4 feet). My legs burned by the end of the climb, and I had to remove my skis a few times and crawl upward on my hands and knees, enlisting the help of nearby saplings. Not the most dignified method, but it worked.

Yeuhi Bangs a Tele Turn

Yeuhi Bangs a Tele Turn

The descent was hairy for the first few feet, with tight trees and a steep drop. But after that it opened up, and we were in a maple grove as clear as any inbounds glade. The powder made executing real tele turns a little difficult, as bending my knee would force my skis deep under the snow. I feel over more than a few times, got snow down my pants, and enjoyed every minute of it. In the end, it was a lot of work for one run, but I was tired and happy at the end of the day. Ate dinner at the Common Man in Lincoln NH, and drove south just in time for the traffic at the tolls in Manchester. Stupid massholes, coming up north just for the weekend!

Feb 11, 2007

Tuckerman

— In: Outdoors Tags: ,

Facing the end of the semester work crunch, I decided to play hooky and ski Tuckerman Ravine. I got Jared to join me, and the Extreme Team assembled. We set out at the crack of dawn (for college students, this means 7am) and got to Pinkham by 10. The parking lot was full, which was expected on a bluebird spring weekend. Hiked to Hojos in a little less than two hours, which was good time given our lack of non-typing exercise. The rangers told us that the Lunch Rocks should be avoided due to icefall, and the right gully was closed because of crevasse danger. So we heeded their advice and spent the day on the left side, hitting three variations on the left gully route. The face gets steeper going further right, so we started at something that looked reasonable, and progressed to a final run that was probably 55 degrees. It wasn’t so bad going up, but turning around and looking down made the legs quiver. It was a truly righteous day, and Jared’s got the scars to prove it.

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May 12, 2007

Huntington Ravine

— In: Outdoors Tags: ,

This weekend I drove up to the mountains for some work on the MIT cabin at Intervale. By trading my blood, sweat and tears, I now have a key to a great base for further adventures in the Whites. After cutting down trees all day on Saturday, and gorging myself with meat Saturday night, I thought a hike was only appropriate for Sunday. I convinced a few other folks to join me on a loop of Huntington and Tuckerman ravines on Mt Washington. I didn’t tell them that the AMC guidebook lists the route as the “most difficult regular hiking trail in Whites.” If they had been warned, they might not have followed me into the breach.

As it was, they were glad they came. It was a gorgeous, clear fall day, with just the right chill in the air to take the edge off the strenuous climb. The trail starts off on the regular Tucks highway, but after Huntington diverges, becomes very steep. There are parts that require hand over hand climbing, and those unsure of their footing might prefer a rope. I made like a mountain goat and scampered up. Having trail running shoes as opposed to real boots was a blessing, because I could jam my feet in cracks and smear on smooth faces. We topped out of the ravine in the Alpine Garden, and I remembered that it was one of the places we scattered Ann’s ashes years ago. I said a silent prayer as we walked across the field, enjoying the sunshine and the spectacular view. Then we turned left and came down Lion’s Head, instead of Tuckerman. Had dinner at a family restaurant in Lincoln, where they had a painted saw with hymns and a cross on it. A cultural experience, to say the least. Then a hurried drive back to Boston, and an exhausted shower. The perfect end to a perfect weekend.

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pano

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Oct 8, 2007

Tis the Season

— In: Outdoors Tags:

The snow has been falling all week at Jay Peak, and I decided it was time to enjoy some of it. It just happened to be the VT Telefest, so I loaded my little car with four other tele skiers, including two newbies, and headed north. They were all undergrads from Olin, so we talked about robots, anarchist conventions, and ascetic eroticism on the drive. It’s always a gamble going on a trip with strangers, but the shared interest in the outdoors tends to ensure good people.

After a sweet powder day, and some useful lessons, we went to Moosilauke on Sunday. Despite living near the mountain, and climbing it innumerable times in the summer, I’d never skied it. Met Steve Flanders in the parking lot, which brought back good memories of carousing with him in the past. Skinned up the Snapper trail, which was a little too rocky for good downhill travel. Made a blind left turn onto the old Snapper trail, henceforth dubbed Whippersnapper, which was steeper and untracked. Had some excellent turns, drank a slushy PBR with lunch, and then bootpacked back up for a run down the Carriage Road. That was less steep, but allowed for some good speed. Instead of skinning out to the access road, we followed Greg’s crazy intuition that there was a shortcut requiring less uphill. After a stream crossing, some serious ‘shwacking up a hillside, and a briar patch, I learned not to necessarily trust Greg’s judgement. We did make it out, but the shortcut didn’t end up being so short. After a beer and steak sandwich at the Woodstock Inn, it was back to Boston for another week of work. God bless the weekend.

Jenko

Jenko

Slushy PBR

Slushy PBR

All skis are rock skis

All skis are rock skis

Dec 9, 2007

Cardigan

— In: Outdoors Tags:

With a storm in Boston on Thursday, and the prospect of another on Sunday, it seemed like another good weekend for skiing. Went this time to Cardigan, another mountain from my childhood, but my first time skiing. Had some excitement on the approach road, due to the fact that I don’t yet have snow tires on the Fit. Chris and Greg got out to push, but I ended up having to back down the hill and get another running start. Of course, I couldn’t stop to pick them up on the way back, so they had to run about a quarter mile uphill, to where I was able to stop on the flat. Neither was happy, and Greg will probably never let me live that down.

With the driving drama over, we met the other guys in the parking lot, and skinned up the Alexandria trail. Felt much stronger than last week, and led a fair bit of the way. Dan’s dog Tucker was actually leading, but I was breaking trail for the skiers. I wish Laika was dog enough to come on trips like this, but she’s just too small to do well on a long hike, as much as she might like it. Ella would do well though, if she were controllable. The snow field on the top of Firescrew was a little crusty, but still had some fun on the rocks, and enjoyed a tremendous view of the whole Whites (Moosilauke, Franconia Ridge, Washington, Osceloa and Tripyramid). I’m not quite an experienced enough with powder to really rip, but I had a ton of fun, and got some good face plants in. At least it doesn’t hurt to fall. After coming all the way down, we also did a quick run on the Kimball. Dinner at the Tilt’n Diner, and then back to Boston to batten down for the next storm. I wonder if I’ll be able to maintain this op-tempo…

Lunch spot

Lunch spot

Giving Tuck some Love

Giving Tuck some Love

Firescrew pan

Firescrew pan

Dec 15, 2007

Hale Yeah

— In: Outdoors Tags:

Went skiing today at Mt Hale, just past the Seven Dwarves Inn in Twin Mountain. We thought it was somewhat off the beaten path, but the 15 cars in the parking lot told us this stash was not so secret. Although the skin track was well traveled, the trees still had plenty of freshies. After a long approach up maybe 3 miles along a frozen streambed, we ascended up a logging road through beautiful birch stands. The trees were thinned by selective logging, and made for several excellent runs, and less ‘shwacking than expected. Took movies of Greg and Pat ripping it up.

Covered in snow

Covered in snow

Covered in snow

Requisite action shot

Requisite action shot

Action Shot

Pat skiing by

Pat skiing by

Pat

Yeuhi ripping it up

Yeuhi ripping it up

Yeuhi

The logging road

The logging road

Logging road

Up the streambed

Up the streambed

Streambed

Feb 9, 2008

Mt Percy

— In: Outdoors Tags:

Ventured into the far north woods of New Hampshire for a weekend off the beaten path. Greg found Mt. Percy by scouring Google Earth for bald peaks; it’s beyond route 2, but close enough to a snowmobile trail that it’s pretty easy to get to. After a long drive beginning at some ungodly hour, we got to the trailhead around 10. Skinned in on the side of the snowmobile trail, diving for cover whenever those ferocious machines sped past. Next time, we’re bringing a rope and getting towed. Once we got to the hiking trail, the noise dropped off and we were alone. We didn’t see any signs of recent skiers, only a moose bed in the deep snow.

The mountain juts above the landscape, only 3300 feet but still two thousand feet above the road. The bald peak looked like a perfect ice cream cone. Sadly, due to equipment issues and our late start, we didn’t make it above treeline, turning around at 2:30 near the col between the two peaks. Still, the ski down was fun in the light powder, and we stopped at a gravel pit on the side of the trail to play on the 40 degree slope. The snowmobilers were impressed by our antics, although we both looked at each other like they were crazy. Cim, Greg and Pat had impressive rides, and I gave it the old college try. The black and white shot below is just prior before a spectacular wipe out.

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Feb 16, 2008

Sangre de Cristo

— In: Outdoors,Travel Tags:

Went to Taos for Lynn’s 60th birthday bash. It was a nice opportunity to get to know Martha’s family more, and I managed to skip out for a day to go skiing. Turns out Taos is about to open to snowboarders, so I got there to see the end of an era. Hiked up Kachina Peak and dropped off the ridge just below the summit. The slope wasn’t as steep as other things I’ve skied, but the foot of fresh powder made it just as much fun. On a weekend when the east was covered in rain, I was living high under the high desert sun. Not a bad life.

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On Kachina Ridge

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My line

pano ridge

pano ridge

Ridge panorama

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Our favorite truck

Mar 9, 2008

Great Gulf

— In: Outdoors Tags:

With the the arrival of spring in Boston, it seemed prudent to drive north and find the last remaining slivers of snow. Drove up to Intervale on Friday and slept out under the stars, testing out my new winter sleeping bag. It wasn’t quite cold enough to really stress it, but it was nice and cozy. With an early start, we got to the Cog Railway base around 8:15; the second car in the lot. There was no snow to be found in the woods, so I chose to hike in sneakers and carry skis and boots on my back. It made for a heavy load, but the extra comfort and ankle flexibility was well worth it.

Goodman’s guide book describes the Great Gulf as the “wildest reaches of the White Mountains,” and I agree. The sheer size of the cirque and the consistent pitch seem more reminiscent of the Rockies than the Presidentials. We went up the Jewell trail and then across Clay Col, ending up to the skiers left of Pipeline. We skied a nice narrow 45 degree pitch, eventually getting to Spaulding Lake after a nice bushwhack. Had lunch there, and then climbed up Airplane for another run. The drop from the col to the lake is about 1300 feet, so I was pretty tired after the climb up. Did a half run of Airplane on perfect corn snow, and then dragged myself back to the ridgeline. We were the last people out of the Gulf at this point; the solitude provided by the relatively remote location is a far cry from the party scene at Tuckerman. Hiked across to Lakes of the Clouds and then skied out Monroe Brook. Got back to the car at 6:30, the last car to leave. Second on the mountain, last off; a sign of another epic day in the Whites.

Coming down Airplane

Coming down Airplane

Getting friendly with the trees

Getting friendly with the trees

greg napping

greg napping

spaulding lake pan

spaulding lake pan

yeuhi greg edge

yeuhi greg edge

The three amigos

The three amigos

Apr 27, 2008

Bretton Woods Gaper Day

— In: Outdoors Tags:

Went to the Bretton Woods Telefest to gape and ski in style. Even got my picture taken with the weatherman:

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Special thanks to Nadya and Drew for the suit and goggles, respectively.

On Sunday we went up to Tuckerman for some steeper terrain, but were turned back by the dust-on-crust snow, and generally gnarly conditions. I reached my point of return when the wind gusted above 50 mph and a whiteout ensued. It’s still winter up in them-thar hills, at least for another few weeks. Almost lost a ski due to fumbling with my new bindings, but I side slipped down several hundred feet to get it. Everyone lived to fight another day, so I’ll chalk it up as type-2 fun.

Mar 23, 2009

Skiing Oakes Gulf

— In: Outdoors Tags:

In the aftermath of Sponsor Week, and with a four day weekend beckoning, it seemed an excellent time to head for the hills. Drove up to Greg’s “cabin” on Saturday night with Nadya and Jeff, then on to the Cog Railways station on Sunday. It was a cloudless, still day; perfect for spring skiing. We skinned up the Ammonoosuc Ravine trail to the Monroe Brook cutoff, and then started climbing.

After a long slog up the brook, we stopped for lunch just below the summit of Monroe. Took two runs down Oakes’ while Nadya and Jeff enjoyed a mountain nap. Then back down the brook, which was nice and corned up by the afternoon. Stayed at Pat’s family place, and enjoyed delicious stew a-la Jeff, and far too many Little Debbie Oatmeal Cream Pies.

Monday we went up to Gulf of Slides, hoping we’d be able to skin all the way. While there was snow at the bottom, many of the expose steep sections were melted out, and we had fun crossing streams with our skis on. As the saying goes, “all skis are rock skis.” It wasn’t quite as sunny, but the snow was still good, and we all enjoyed the second day of strenuous exercise. Here’s hoping the autoroad will open up soon, and we can ski Great Gulf without the long hike in. Dinner at the Tilt’n Diner, as always, and then back to Boston in the rain.

Looking up Monroe Brook

Looking up Monroe Brook

Lunch near Monroe Summit

Lunch near Monroe Summit

Sitting on top of the world

Sitting on top of the world

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My Wild Style

My Wild Style

Apr 21, 2009

Mt Washington Slackcountry

— In: Outdoors Tags:

Skiing in May? Hells yes! With the Auto Road open, and (most) of my work done for the semester, it was a perfect time to head north and see what’s left in the hills. We drove up Friday night and camped on the Intervale platform, getting to the Auto Road at 7:30, first in line for it to open at 8. Greg of course had to go get breakfast, so we weren’t actually the first ones up, but there was still plenty left by the time we got there.

The great thing about driving up is that we had fresh legs for the descent, meaning more runs on the steeps, and less time slogging uphill. The downside of driving is the cost, $40 for a carload, and the fact that little pebbles kept getting stuck in my brake rotors and screeching like sirens. But at least I got a bumper sticker that now proclaims that my roof box “climbed Mt. Washington.”

Great Gulf was sick, as always. We did three runs, 800 feet vertical each, at over a 45 degree pitch. The hardcore guys ventured off to some even sicker terrain, but I was happy stretching my legs on Airplane’s relatively open slop. Spacewalk sounded a little too exciting for me, with a 60 degree slope and a right angle dogleg in the middle.

After our third run, the wind picked up and the weather took a drastic turn for the worse. The wind rose and our sunny spring day disappeared under the clouds. Gusts over 60 mph made the climb back to the car a little spicy with our skis acting as sails on our packs. But we all made it fine, and drove up to the summit for a “topless on top” picture. That one may not make it on the internet, due to partial nudity. But I think the rest speak for themselves.

Looking down

Looking down

Storing our perishables

Storing our perishables

Panorama from Camp

Panorama from Camp

Bottom of the run

Bottom of the run

Chillin on it

Chillin on it

Mammiferous clouds herald bad weather

Mammiferous clouds herald bad weather

Google Earth Summary

Google Earth Summary

May 16, 2009

Mt Stinson

— In: Outdoors Tags:

Finally got out on the snow a weekend after the big storms. Found a hill near the MITOC cabin at Rumney, which was logistically convenient and close enough for a day trip. The snow was still deep and light, but the pitch wasn’t quite steep enough. That, or I need to wax my skis. Still, weaving between the trees is always fun. I got stabbed in my shoulder by one, which actually drew blood even through my shell. Glad I was wearing my new helmet and goggles. Chicks dig scars, right?

Sledheads at Summit

Sledheads at Summit

Lunch spot

Lunch spot

Bottom of run

Bottom of run

Tired and hungry

Tired and hungry

Route Map

Route Map

Thanks to Nadya and Keith for the photos


Got back to the city with just enough time for a shower before the LSC SciFi marathon. Couldn’t miss that MIT tradition.

Jan 24, 2010

Skiing Mount Washington

— In: Outdoors Tags:

Today was just about perfect. I woke at 5:30 having only slept a few hours, picked up Drew, Greg and Jeff, and headed north. Three hours of driving, and one obligatory stop at Einstein’s later, we were at the Cog Railway base and faced with a crowded parking lot. Seems like other people noticed the recent snowfall and nice weather. No worries, there’s plenty of room on the mountain for everyone.

Monroe Brook Avy Path

Monroe Brook Avy Path

The Long Slog Uphill

The Long Slog Uphill


We ascended the Ammonoosuc Ravine trail, which I hadn’t climbed since I was 12. It’s steeper than I remember, but one of the more direct routes to the summit on the west side. I wasn’t in peak physical condition, thanks to my lack of sleep and thesis belly, but I made it eventually. 3.8 miles, 3700 feet and three hours later, we were at the summit with skis on. Triumphant pictures were taken, and lunch was consumed in the protective windscreen of the oldest building on the summit. We skied the back towards Lakes of the Clouds, harvesting the fresh corn that had softened in the afternoon sun. I stopped to take a nap while the other guys climbed back up for extra laps.


Video of Greg and Drew

Jeff Looking Sweet

Jeff Looking Sweet

Preparing for a Second Run

Preparing for a Second Run

A Victorious Group

A Victorious Group

Self Portrait at the Summit

Self Portrait at the Summit


With clouds appearing and shadows starting to creep across our exit path, we decided to pack it in around 3:30. We traversed to Lakes of the Clouds, skiing across the lake surface and down Monroe Brook. We didn’t find the steepest entrance, but the ride was still great. The lower surface was littered with debris from previous avalanches, and I was glad we were here late in the season, when the snow is already condensed. We passed the Nadya Peek memorial brook, where she fell in on this trip last year and noted her absence with a long discussion on PID controls. Got to the car around 5 exhausted, smelly and happy. Three more hours of driving and I was back home, where I collapsed in bed to sleep like the dead. The sign of a day well spent.

Apr 24, 2010

Epic Day at Alpine

— In: California,Outdoors Tags:

Today was one of the top skiing days of my life. Up there with skiing Mt Washington from top to bottom last spring, and the day I skipped school senior year of high school to go to Cannon, and then returned home to find out I had gotten into college.

The last storm dumped 48″, and the resorts and highway 80 were closed on Friday, keeping the good stuff around long enough for us to get up there. The powder was boot-top everywhere, thigh to waist-high in the trees, and the skies were clear and blue. The air was cold by California standards, but the sun was warm. I’m told that in the local vernacular, the conditions were “hella nectar.” I don’t disagree.

Ian and Daniel showed me one of their favorite stashes, just out of bounds on the lake side of Scott mountain. It was less tracked up than the in bounds trails, and held good lines well into the afternoon. My tele technique in the steep and deep is still progressing, but it was hard to look bad in this hero snow. Helped a woman try and find a ski she lost in the trees, but she eventually gave up and said she’d come back and find it in the spring. Returned with John, Boyd and Chris, and did it all over again.

Outer limits panorama

Outer limits panorama

Warning: serious stoke

Ian and Daniel riding

Feb 26, 2011

Jakes Peak

— In: California,Outdoors Tags:

Had a Spring Break MITOC reunion, with Chris, Greg, Drew, Eric and others. Stayed at a Tahoe “cabin”, really an incredible home we were able to stay in for free. No Camelot for us! There’s more snow here than I’ve ever seen. The moutains got seven-plus feet over the last week. Got up there on Friday night after a long drive, made longer by needing to put on chains, which were entirely unnecessary. I wish CalTrans would let you pass the chain control if you’re a competent winter driver. But the (apparently injury-free) rollover accident we saw indicates that not everyone is…

Record breaking snowfall

Record breaking snowfall

Went to Alpine on Saturday, which had a tremendous amount of snow, but was incredibly windy. Got stuck at the base of Sherwood when the lift shut down, so we had a nice climb out. Should have gone to Squaw, where our friends had a top ten day. At least we got a comped lift ticket for another day. The walls of the parking lot were 20′ of snow, so there should be plenty left later in the season.


Ascending from the Lake

Ascending from the Lake

At the back of the pack

At the back of the pack

On Sunday we went to Jakes Peak just off Emerald Bay. It’s a classic backcountry run, with a pretty steep skin track right off the bat. I’m a little out of shape, but Chris kept me company in the back. When we got to the top, I was glad to have my new beacon and shovel, as there are several clear avalanche paths. Definitely need that gear out here; and yes Mom, I am going to take a safety course.


Descending un-gracefully

Descending un-gracefully

Descending was not as epic as you’d think given the amount of snow. The high winds had done their worst, and the surface was pretty slabby for the top third. The middle was quite nice, and then it got a little heavier at the bottom. Took a few tumbles in the soft snow when I couldn’t keep my weight far enough back. Still, I had a better descent than John, whose rented AT gear malfunctioned and so had to walk/shovel ride down 2000 feet. Better luck next time, Gamble.

After one lap, I was too spent to consider another. The boys built a kicker at the side of the road and got some extra vert off the 12 foot drop. Drew called his Mom while sending it, for a thousand extra gnar points .

Got home around 9:30, and launched the new Presente.org site. Not bad for a three day weekend.

Mar 27, 2011

Kayaking in Baja California

— In: Outdoors,Travel Tags:

After a multi-family christmas in North Carolina, Ruth and I ventured to Baja California for a relaxing beach vacation. We found relatively cheap flights to Cabo on Delta and Virgin, and booked a kayaking excursion with Mar Y Adventuras which dealt with all the logistics and equipment.

Arriving at the airport

Arriving at the airport

After flying from Charlotte to Atlanta to Cabo, and snarking at the rest of the tourists, I was ready to get away from the unwashed gringo masses. We took a bus from Cabo to La Paz, which was filled with older folks heading to their sailboat moorings, and one guy who watched several episodes of Friends without headphones, subjecting the rest of us to the horror of the laugh-track. I was getting nervous about the kind of trip I had signed up for.


La Paz Malecon

La Paz Malecon

My new old man hat

My new old man hat

Arriving in La Paz, one of our older bus-mates, with a glint of nostalgia in his eye, told us to make the most of our youth and “do silly things”. We walked along the beachfront Malecon to our hotel, stocked up on supplies (liquor, beach blanket, and a floppy old-man hat), and thought about how to infuse our lives with more silliness. Echoes of Steve Jobs’ advice to “stay hungry, stay foolish.”


Map of Isla Espiritu Santo

Map of Isla Espiritu Santo

Arriving at our campsite

Arriving at our campsite

In the morning, we met our small group of fellow adventurers and guide, rented gear and set off. A quick bus and boat ride later, and we were on our desert island, Espiritu Santo. It looks like a slice of Utah canyonlands dropped into the azure sea. It’s a national park with zero development, but the tour company has a semi-permanent base setup each season with tents on the beach, a kitchen well stocked with food and beer, and a toilet with the best view I’ve ever had. We had a quick introductory paddle, then settled down to drink beer and watch the sunset.


Ruth paddling

Ruth paddling

Paddling at sunset

Paddling at sunset

Incredible sunset

Incredible sunset


Sea Lion Colony

Sea Lion Colony

The water is colder than it looks

The water is colder than it looks

The next day, we took the boat to the north end of the island, where we entered the water to frolic with sea lions. They are friendly and curious creatures, but we were warned that without prehensile limbs, they tend to investigate with their mouths. I wasn’t bitten, but one played chicken with me and gave me an eye-to-eye experience. They are incredibly playful, and I had fun diving down and mimicking their graceful movements in my clumsy way. Ruth preferred to stay on the surface, but also got close enough to rub fins. It was awesome to get so close to these wild animals, and I may have a hard time restraining myself next time I go to Fisherman’s Wharf.


Tight landing spot

Tight landing spot

Tarantula hawk

Tarantula hawk

After lunch, we got back in the kayaks and paddled along the coast to a small inlet. We beached ourselves on the rocky shore, and hiked up an arroyo. The landscape is starkly beautiful, but most of the flora and fauna is fairly aggro. As we were hiking, Roman stopped to point out a dried cactus that scorpions like to live in, and a “tarantula hawk” wasp. Also called the Caballo del Diablo, it kills spiders by stinging them with a paralytic, then laying its eggs in it so the young can eat it alive. Apparently its sting is also one of the most painful possible (4 out of 5 on the Schmidt Pain Index). I took a photo with my zoom lens and gave it a wide berth.

For New Years Eve we popped a bottle of Cava, drank rum under the stars, and went to bed at 9pm. The visibility in the night sky was incredible, as clear as anything I’ve ever seen in Vermont or Montana. With no humidity or light pollution, the constellations appeared to be painted on the sky, and I impressed Ruth by knowing a few and making up many more. Stumbling out of the tent to pee after the moon had set, I had as brilliant a view as any reveler in Times Square.


Mangroves

Mangroves

Beach cave lunch

Beach cave lunch

The next day, we kayaked some more to a mangrove swamp, and had lunch in a cave. The wind was starting to pick up, and we were both getting a little tired of paddling. I don’t think it’s my new sport, it felt more useful as a means to an end than as the point itself. We got a ride on the skiff back to the camp for early margaritas and a nap on our beach. When the other paddlers returned, they noted that the wind made the trip “a little sporty”, but that they had still done the estimated two hour paddle in 1:40. I think we made the right choice.


Our final morning on the island, we packed up, took a photograph with the two of us in it (despite not having showered in days), and took a last walk down the beach. We returned to La Paz for showers, seafood and souvenirs. While we realized that we kind of hated the rest of Cabo, and could probably get better Mexican food in Oakland, the unspoiled island and the incredible scenery made it worth the hassle. Time to plan the next adventure.


Beach Portrait

Beach Portrait

Chocolate Clam Cocktail

Chocolate Clam Cocktail

Espiritu Santo from the air

Espiritu Santo from the air

Jan 3, 2012

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