Arriving at the airport

After flying from Charlotte to Atlanta to Cabo, and snarking at the rest of the tourists, I was ready to get away from the unwashed gringo masses. We took a bus from Cabo to La Paz, which was filled with older folks heading to their sailboat moorings, and one guy who watched several episodes of Friends without headphones, subjecting the rest of us to the horror of the laugh-track. I was getting nervous about the kind of trip I had signed up for.

La Paz Malecon

My new old man hat

Arriving in La Paz, one of our older bus-mates, with a glint of nostalgia in his eye, told us to make the most of our youth and “do silly things”. We walked along the beachfront Malecon to our hotel, stocked up on supplies (liquor, beach blanket, and a floppy old-man hat), and thought about how to infuse our lives with more silliness. Echoes of Steve Jobs’ advice to “stay hungry, stay foolish.”

Map of Isla Espiritu Santo

Arriving at our campsite

In the morning, we met our small group of fellow adventurers and guide, rented gear and set off. A quick bus and boat ride later, and we were on our desert island, Espiritu Santo. It looks like a slice of Utah canyonlands dropped into the azure sea. It’s a national park with zero development, but the tour company has a semi-permanent base setup each season with tents on the beach, a kitchen well stocked with food and beer, and a toilet with the best view I’ve ever had. We had a quick introductory paddle, then settled down to drink beer and watch the sunset.

Ruth paddling

Paddling at sunset

Incredible sunset

Sea Lion Colony

The water is colder than it looks

The next day, we took the boat to the north end of the island, where we entered the water to frolic with sea lions. They are friendly and curious creatures, but we were warned that without prehensile limbs, they tend to investigate with their mouths. I wasn’t bitten, but one played chicken with me and gave me an eye-to-eye experience. They are incredibly playful, and I had fun diving down and mimicking their graceful movements in my clumsy way. Ruth preferred to stay on the surface, but also got close enough to rub fins. It was awesome to get so close to these wild animals, and I may have a hard time restraining myself next time I go to Fisherman’s Wharf.

Tight landing spot

Tarantula hawk

After lunch, we got back in the kayaks and paddled along the coast to a small inlet. We beached ourselves on the rocky shore, and hiked up an arroyo. The landscape is starkly beautiful, but most of the flora and fauna is fairly aggro. As we were hiking, Roman stopped to point out a dried cactus that scorpions like to live in, and a “tarantula hawk” wasp. Also called the Caballo del Diablo, it kills spiders by stinging them with a paralytic, then laying its eggs in it so the young can eat it alive. Apparently its sting is also one of the most painful possible (4 out of 5 on the Schmidt Pain Index). I took a photo with my zoom lens and gave it a wide berth.

For New Years Eve we popped a bottle of Cava, drank rum under the stars, and went to bed at 9pm. The visibility in the night sky was incredible, as clear as anything I’ve ever seen in Vermont or Montana. With no humidity or light pollution, the constellations appeared to be painted on the sky, and I impressed Ruth by knowing a few and making up many more. Stumbling out of the tent to pee after the moon had set, I had as brilliant a view as any reveler in Times Square.

Mangroves

Beach cave lunch

The next day, we kayaked some more to a mangrove swamp, and had lunch in a cave. The wind was starting to pick up, and we were both getting a little tired of paddling. I don’t think it’s my new sport, it felt more useful as a means to an end than as the point itself. We got a ride on the skiff back to the camp for early margaritas and a nap on our beach. When the other paddlers returned, they noted that the wind made the trip “a little sporty”, but that they had still done the estimated two hour paddle in 1:40. I think we made the right choice.

Our final morning on the island, we packed up, took a photograph with the two of us in it (despite not having showered in days), and took a last walk down the beach. We returned to La Paz for showers, seafood and souvenirs. While we realized that we kind of hated the rest of Cabo, and could probably get better Mexican food in Oakland, the unspoiled island and the incredible scenery made it worth the hassle. Time to plan the next adventure.

Beach Portrait

Chocolate Clam Cocktail

Espiritu Santo from the air

OccupyCal @ Sproul

December 2, 1964	November 15, 2011

]]> http://www.levinger.net/josh/2011/11/15/occupycal/feed 0 37.8694153 -122.2591553 http://www.levinger.net/josh/2011/10/25/occupyoakland http://www.levinger.net/josh/2011/10/25/occupyoakland#comments Tue, 25 Oct 2011 06:13:24 +0000 Josh Levinger http://www.levinger.net/josh/?p=1106 Backdating this post a bit, but figured I should put all my #occupy media together.

Flickr set

Livestream from 10/25

Much more at 99PercentMedia, a site I helped build to aggregate and curate content from the movement.

]]> http://www.levinger.net/josh/2011/10/25/occupyoakland/feed 0 37.8043633 -122.2711105 http://www.levinger.net/josh/2011/09/19/laika-the-first-dog-in-space http://www.levinger.net/josh/2011/09/19/laika-the-first-dog-in-space#comments Mon, 19 Sep 2011 16:35:49 +0000 Josh Levinger http://www.levinger.net/josh/?p=1084 Laika was a good dog: smart and sweet and loyal. I got her when I was just a kid, 12 years old in the summer of 1997. She and I grew up together.

Going on walks in the woods that were further than her short legs could handle, she would eventually stop and wait for me to pick her up and carry her the rest of the way. She was adventurous, staying outside long after dark, coming home not exactly when called, but a little after. I never did figure out how to whistle properly, so a falsetto yell was our rallying cry.

After a bath, she’d hate her clean new scent and rub her face on the couch until she smelled like herself again. One walk back from the groomer, she found a mud puddle and submerged herself up to the neck in it. Once she was nice and dirty again, she emerged entirely pleased with herself.

She was a good traveler, going back and forth between VT and southern NH on alternate weekends. When I got her I told her she’d have to learn to like the car, and that she did. She’d fall asleep with her head cocked upwards against the seatback, which looked awkward but must have been comfortable. She’d know when we got to Old Ridge Rd, and would perk up to survey her other territory.

When I left for college, Laika went to live with Janet and Lou, but she was still my dog. Coming home for weekends, she’d meet me at the door with a squeal and demand belly rubs for at ten uninterrupted minutes. The whole weekend, she’d be glued to my side. I think it slightly irked Janet and Lou, because what are they chopped liver? But it was always clear she was my dog, and I was her boy.

After moving out of the dorm, I brought Laika down to Boston. I wasn’t quite as conscientious a care-taker as the adults were, but Laika adjusted well to her new surroundings and a smaller backyard. She got new friends in my roommates, snacks whenever we grilled out back, and a spot on the front porch from which she could bark up and down the street. It was a perfect vantage point for keeping watch over the neighborhood.

She knew nothing about cars, and moving from the country to the city was an adjustment for us both. I now had to walk her on a leash and pick up poop with my hand covered in a plastic bag. She had to learn to wait at crosswalks, or at least not go until I let her. She always loved the snow, maybe some of that Tibetan heritage. She would leap through drifts far taller than you’d think a small dog would be able to manage. There was joy in her step, romping through the park.

She was cute; maybe cuter than a young man deserved. I always thought she’d come in handy picking up girls, but walking on the Somerville community path it was always the old ladies who would stop and ask to pet her. She did work on one young woman, though. Ruth knew that the way to me was through Laika, and did her best to ingratiate herself into our relationship. Laika learned to move over in bed, and the three of us became a family.

When I moved to California, Laika came with me. Not at first, but once I found an apartment that allowed dogs, I was on the next plane back east to get her. She did well on the plane, quietly sleeping underneath the seat in front of me. Until I too fell asleep, and she wandered toward the cockpit. The stewardess scolded me with annoyance, but I knew Laika just wanted to go exploring.

California had new smells, new dog friends in our building, and a new routine. I left for work after our morning walks, and she would be waiting for me by the door for my return in the evening. She wasn’t always able to wait to pee for that long, so we got her an absorbent pad and a little piece of fake grass to put in the bathroom. The smell didn’t bother me too much, and Ruth not at all, so it was a workable solution.

Recently, Laika started to lose energy and eat less. I reminded myself that she’s an old lady, just turned 14 in June, and almost 100 in dog-years. I could tell she wasn’t feeling well when she would no longer eat her pill-concealing treats, or even drink milk out of a bowl. She used to bark at me as I ate breakfast, demanding her turn at the sugary milk. That’s when I knew it was time.

Today, I took Laika to the vet for the last time. I carried her in my arms, as she’s gotten used to getting rides down the hall. She peed on me a little in the car, perhaps a parting shot, or a sign that she hadn’t eaten her medication in over a week. She didn’t mind the vet, just closed her eyes and fell asleep. I cried, which I don’t often do, but felt right today.

I don’t think much of heaven, but I know that Laika’s spirit is too strong to disappear immediately. I’d like to think that she joined her namesake and is barking at the stars.

]]> http://www.levinger.net/josh/2011/09/19/laika-the-first-dog-in-space/feed 3 37.8033447 -122.2659073 http://www.levinger.net/josh/2011/08/21/equine-adventures http://www.levinger.net/josh/2011/08/21/equine-adventures#comments Mon, 22 Aug 2011 03:53:40 +0000 Josh Levinger http://www.levinger.net/josh/?p=1077

Weiner para-nationals

Weiners go!

Weiners set

Andy is here for the weekend, and we decided to make it a horse-based visit. Yesterday we went to Golden Gate Fields, where the races were interspersed with with the Weiner Nationals. Those little dogs ran their hearts out, including one who was on wheels. But for me, the betting ended up being the bigger attraction. I learned what I could from the program, and then put $20 and decided to have some fun. My first bet was a winner, which set a dangerous precedent. Two hours, a double Bloody Mary and a few Heinekins later, and my $20 had turned into $37. Of course the winnings didn’t cover the drink prices or the entry fee, but I’ll definitely be back on a Dollar Sunday, when the transaction costs are lower.

Hallelujah Harry makes his move

I’m on a horse

Riding through the golden fields

Post adventure meal

After a night out at downtown Oakland’s hippest bars, we woke bleary eyed and headed north to Point Reyes for further horsing. Ruth had bought a Yelpon for half-priced horseback riding, and so we played cowboy and cowgirl for a morning. My horse, Polly, was a little lazy, but we formed a bond and I didn’t nudge her too hard in the ribs to start a trot. After a two hour ride, we took our saddle sore selves to the shore for an oyster extravaganza. Turns out Andy doesn’t like oysters, so I had to double up on the 50 we bought. I was happy to oblige.

• one Jewish lesbian wedding
• visiting six states, and five of their capitols
• driving 2,780 miles
• hiking another 28
• burning 87.44 gallons of gasoline, creating 1,696 pounds of carbon dioxide
• purchasing 100 oysters, consuming 30, and donating 50 to an Oregon state park ranger
• observing two grizzlies swimming in a lake by our campsite
• snuggling one baby tiger

Salmon River valley

Driving by Mt Borah

Leaving Montana, we drove back to Oakland in a mad dash across three enormous states. We took the incredibly scenic “Peaks to Craters byway” in Idaho, past the highest point in the state, and through the beautiful Salmon River valley. After sleeping in Arco, the first town powered by nuclear energy, we visited the volcanic landscape at Craters of the Moon National Monument.

Indian Tube

Blue Dragon lava flow

The same volcanic forces that created Crater Lake, Mount Ranier, Mount St Helens and Yellowstone also poured out onto the Snake River plain. I got a refresher book called Practical Geology, since I don’t remember much from my last formal training in eighth grade science. Turns out that the lava is blue due to the presence of titanian magnetite. We entered lava tube caves and I did a little spelunking, crawling into a cave that maintains an icy floor year round. Not quite as Indiana Jones-esque as in Belize, but a good adventure nonetheless.

Ruth unimpressed by the "Niagara of the West"

Snake River canyon

Scenic Wells, NV

Heading back across Idaho and Nevada, we stopped in almost every town to stretch our legs and refill the tank. Had an amazing breakfast at the Buffalo cafe in Twin Falls, and digested it while overlooking the town’s 212-ft high namesake. Looked across the canyon that Evel Knievel tried to jump, and marveled at the audacity of the man to try. I wanted to go to the Western Folklife Center in Elko to hear cowboy poetry, but it was closed, and might be shut forever if the Tea Party gets its way. Tried to take the downtown walking tour of Wells, but it appears to have burned down a few years ago.

On to Winnemucca, where we ate at an excellent Basque restaurant and some friendly local teachers at our table reminded us that it’s pronounced ne-vAD-a, not ne-vAH-da. Went to a bar called the Mineshaft, where a Yelp review warns that all the patrons would be meth-heads. I watch Breaking Bad, so this was sort of an attraction, but it’s actually a fine place with free pool tables and an endless slideshow of semi-nude parties. I’d go back when I’m in town again.

Mungy Moose in Coeur d’Alene

Rainbow Trout aquarium

Double Rainbow near Flathead Lake

Left the Cascades and drove across Washington and Idaho towards the Rockies. Stopped for lunch in Coeur d’Alene, where I had an excellent elk burger topped with brie and pear, and a blueberry-dressed salad. Very country-chic. We got off I-90 in Montana, and headed north through a dry thunderstorm. Saw an excellent double rainbow near Polson, and wondered what it all meant. At least the car got a natural shower. Arrived later than I had planned to Kendra and Dan’s, forgetting about the hour difference to mountain time, but they were good hosts and gave us beer for dinner anyways.

Flowers reclaiming the burned forest

Looking down on our campsite

Upper Kintla Lake

Woke early for our drive up to the park, with Kendra graciously accompanying us as a car shuttle between trailheads. It turned out that we couldn’t hike the route I had planned, because snow still blocked the pass, so we settled for an out and back to Upper Kintla Lake. It was still beautiful, and probably enough hiking for the moderate shape that we are in. I knew that California could make me soft, but I didn’t think it would happen so soon.

The friendly trail crew at our campsite saw a pair of bears splashing into the other side of the lake, but by the time I found my binoculars they had disappeared. Probably for the best, as I didn’t really want to have to use the bear spray Kendra insisted we take. We did hear barking twice on the trail, which was close enough for me. We did see lots of other friendly wildlife:

Zerene Fritillary

Big toad

Bunny

Quail

Fox

When we emerged from the woods dusty and sweaty, we returned to Kendra and Dan’s for showers and a bike excursion to their favorite bar in Kalispell. Moose’s Saloon had cheap pitchers of local beer, a sawdust floor, good “Montana-style” pizza. We got the jalapeno, sauerkraut and sausage special, which is as delicious as it sounds.

Conveniently viewable elk

Oregon’s Art Deco Capitol

Mt Hood from Portland

Drove across Oregon, by some Roosevelt Elk that were conveniently sitting in an elk viewing area. Then north on I-5, stopping at a hellish mall in Woodburn for last minute hiking acquisitions at the Columbia outlet. Then through Portland, where we didn’t stop to put a bird on it. We did enjoy an excellent burger at the Willamette Burger Company in Salem, and got a good look at the art deco capital building.

Space Needle and Experience Music

Pike Place and the SBX Radar

Fish

Spent the evening in Seattle, where we enjoyed four kinds of meats and five kinds of scotch at Quinn’s. In the morning we toured the Experience Music Project, where I learned more about Nirvana than I ever expected to, and was actually out-dorked by the Battlestar Galactica exhibit. Bought some excellent salmon jerky at Pike Place, which we resolved to eat before entering the woods, as its smell would surely attract a bear. Also spied the Sea-Based X-Band Radar in dry dock across the sound, which lead me into a lengthy discussion of the suitability of various missile defense system designs. Felt like 17.477 with Ted Postol all over again…

Kassie and Monica’s wedding was lovely, ranking up there in my top three most picturesque Jewish lesbian ceremonies.