Heading to Old Europe to learn from the masters about fighting fascism.

First stop: Berlin, where we paid respects at the German Resistance Memorial. Brave soldiers and civilians stood up to Nazism, and were murdered by state. Today seen as heroes, not traitors. They resisted not just through the failed coups, but through their churches, schools, youth groups, civil society, scientists and artists.

Members of July 20th coup against Hitler

Members of July 20th coup against Hitler

Add your own vowels

Add your own vowels

German Resistance Memorial

German Resistance Memorial

We also re-visited the Berlin Wall Eastside gallery. The murals are much cleaner than they were last year, after a dedicated graffiti removal campaign. That hasn’t stopped newer hands from adding their voices, though.

Breach in the Barrier

Breach in the Barrier

Tearing Down the Wall

Tearing Down the Wall

My God, Help Me to Survive This Deadly Love

My God, Help Me to Survive This Deadly Love

We also enjoyed the Christmas markets, which feel festive without being schmaltzy. Although perhaps that’s just because it’s a different kind of tackiness than I’m used to. This was before the attack on the market at Breitschedidplatz, which sadly temper our memories of the season.

Pile of Sausages

Pile of Sausages

Christmas Carousel

Christmas Carousel

Glühwein

Glühwein