Category: Travel Page 57 of 64

Globetrottin’

Day 3 – Jerusalem

On June 19, 2007

In the morning we climbed a waterfall in the Golan, which served as an excellent shower. Then we drove to Mt Bental which overlooks the Syrian border and contains a bunker from the 1967 war. It’s clearly put together as a tourist attraction, but is fun as a piece of kitsch. We got to listen to a one-sided history lesson about the various wars, the heroism of the Israeli tank commanders, and why the taking of the Golan Heights was a defensive move. While I concede that taking the high ground is a strategically important objective, the idea that Israel only fights defensive wars is clearly false.

We drove to Jerusalem, and prepared for the Mega Event, a gathering of all the birthright groups in country at the moment for a ritual orgy of zionism. The thousands of waving flags, thumping pop music, and unthinking group dynamic was reminiscent of rallies at Nuremberg. At least there was a dance party afterwards, where I was able to work out my political tension by unbuttoning my shirt and getting my groove on. I channel every eurotrash/arzt stereotype, and made a total fool of myself. It was glorious.

Day 2 – Kinneret

By Josh

On June 18, 2007

In Birthright and Beyond

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This is why we’re hot

Today we woke near the Sea of Galilee, at what is called a kibbutz but appears to really be a motel. Vivi, our tour guide, is almost unbearably chipper, and wakes us each morning to the dulcet tones of Israeli pop and cries of “boker tov.” Took a short hike up to a military base to get accustomed to the heat and humidity.

Lunch in the Kabbalist town of Tzvat which now appears to be simply a tourist trap. Then we went river rafting on the river Jordan, which is really just a stream. The current was fast enough to be fun, particularly when going around corners. Joel, one of our American guides, fell out of his raft, and decided to join ours on short notice. He dove in head first, causing Jared and I to duck. Kali didn’t see him coming, and got his face slammed into the top of her head. She had a sore noggin, but he got a bruise that lasted the rest of the trip.

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Crump vs clown

After dinner, and an activity to discover our Judaism, we went on a cruise around the Sea in something resembling an Ark. Jared got his dance on, crumping with Vivi. Bruce, a former WNBA cheerleader, also showed his moves.

Birthright Israel

By Josh

On June 17, 2007

In Birthright and Beyond

Left today for a birthright trip to Israel with Jared and Kali. It’s a free trip offered to young Jews who haven’t been to Israel before, to help them appreciate the state, and maybe get them to fall in love and make Jewish babies. Neither of these ends are our goals, but a free plane ticket around the world is too good to pass up.

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El-Al 747

Jared failed the Jewish test administered by El-Al, and was searched closely before being allowed on the flight. When they found his Arabic textbook, they decided he was a security risk, and he was escorted onto the plane before the rest of us, surrounded by burly guards. This was an ignominious start.

Placencia to Jaguar Paw

By Josh

On January 16, 2007

In Maya Adventure

After saying goodbye to Lou, we drove south back to the coast, in a rented Suzuki Sidekick that seemed about to fall to pieces. There was a crack in the windshield that started at two inches long, that spanned the car by the time we were done. I thought I would die at any moment in a hail of glass. Stopped in Dangriga, and had an excellent meal at King Burger. Tried to see the Garifuna museum, to learn more about the unique freed slave culture, but it was closed. Hours here are seemingly at the whim of the proprietor. Spent the night in Hopkins at a place on the beach, and tried to hear local drumming, but it was preempted by a speech by Bush. Everyone at the local bar enjoyed jeering our President, and we surprised them by being reasonable Americans.

Hammock Bliss

Left Hopkins and drove to Placencia on 30 miles of unpaved mud, ruts and potholes. Still, that doesn’t stop the developers from building monstrosities for rich Americans. The town itself is smaller than Caye Caulker, but has a similar feel. Spent three days lounging in our hammocks at Saks Beach House, churning through book after book. Went to the Purple Space Monkey (silly name, decent food) to trade in my trashy scifi for John Le Carré spy novels. Nothing like reading about the Cold War on the beach, sipping Belikin beer.

Blue Morpho

After Placencia, drove inland again to Jaguar Paw, for one last dose of jungle. Did a cave tubing trip, which was less adventurous than ATM, but still lots of fun. Got to see a wonderful butterfly farm, and learned more about lepidopteran breeding than I ever needed to. Also took a zipline in the canopy, which seemed sort of hokey, but was actually a blast. Not an educational experience persay, but lots of fun to fly through the trees.

Zipline

Tikal, Guatemala

By Josh

On January 8, 2007

In Maya Adventure

Tikal 2

After seeing ruins at Caracol and Xunantunich, I thought I was ruined out. How wrong I was… Tikal surpasses both for sheer scale, and the sense of an ancient city lost in the jungle. The site was used as a standin for Yavin 4 in Star Wars: A New Hope. Looking off the top of one temple, you could just imagine spacecraft landing for a rebel award ceremony. Saw Howler and Spider monkeys playing in the trees, and nearly tame coatimundis.

Jaguar Temple

After lunch, bought a hammock. It will be perfect for lounging around in my future Cambridge digs. Got to Flores in the afternoon, and settled into a whole new rythym. Guatemala is much more Central American, not just because of the Spanish, but more hectic, less efficient, and clearly poorer. Catholicism and Spanish colonialism can do that to a country. Despite men with guns on seemingly every street corner, the people are very lively. Saw parades and vibraphone practices, with firecrackers bursting late into the night, with no discernable reason why. Surely it was some Saint’s Day.

Flores Parade

At sunset, watched a community basketball game. For small men, they were impressive players, and certainly quick enough to make it a fun game. Had dinner at La Luna, apparently an expat hangout, with a classy bar scene.