Today we have a full day in Hue, but I resolved to take it a little easier given the heat and humidity. We fit in several more temples, but also a nap.
For breakfast we walked to get Bun Bo hue, the lemongrass spiced soup dish that is similar to pho but even more delicious. Kanh recommended a place near us that specializes in it, which fit the Bourdain “plastic chairs” checklist. I got a salted coffee from next door for extra energy for the long and hot day ahead.
We had planned to walk to the Thien Mu Pagoda, but the river cruise too proved too tempting. We negotiated a reasonable round trip rate, and got a private dragon boat to take us about two miles down the river, wait for us to tour, and then return. Much cooler and more stylish than walking.
The seven-level pagoda was beautiful, with iconic architecture from the 1600s that endures as a symbol of the city. It became famous as the departure point of Thich Quang Duc, the monk who self-immolated in protest in 1963. The photo of him calmly siting won a Pulitzer Prize for Malcome Browne, and was credited with ending JFK’s support for the Diem regime in South Vietnam. It was also memorialized as album art by Rage Against the Machine in 1992. His car is preserved on site as a reminder of his sacrifice.
We departed the temple after our agreed upon 30 minutes, and then cruised back to the port. A short walk to the hotel, another dip in the pool, and a massage brought our afternoon to a relaxing close.
After the heat of the day passed, we walked to vintage store, got more records including a vin-house album that will go over great at parties. We’re still looking for Saigon soul, but may check again on our return to the big city. We enjoyed excellent cocktails at Ikigai, where they are true masters of the science of mixology, and have the outfits to prove it.
Then we went to dinner where you get to grill your own meal. We ordered shrimp, octopus, pork belly, beef lettuce wrap, and cheese covered oysters. We did an okay job, but the wait staff did come and turn our meat a few times. When it came time to pay we didn’t have quite enough cash, so I left Ruth and walked to find an ATM. Not more than 30-seconds later, I was offered hookers and blow by a guy in a pedicab. I demurred, but did ask him where to get cash…
On our walk back along the river, we marveled at the design of the communal space along the banks. It was well taken care of, not full of anti-homeless architecture designed to make people move along. Maybe the problem is capitalism?
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