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Globetrottin’

Rain Can’t Stop the Ragga Jam

Arrived on Caye Caulker a few days ago, and have settled into the “go slow” vibe.

Go Slow

Go Slow

Took a Raggamuffin Cruise to Hol Chan Marine Reserve. Snorkeling by sailboat is definitely the way to go, because the whole day was completely relaxing. The guides were both skilled and laid back, and the rest of the passengers were young backpackers. When the sail wouldn’t come down easily, the captain Jerry sent his first-mate Leban up the mast to fix the problem. (picture forthcoming) Climbing twenty feet up a metal pole, bare feet to metal, Leban his unforeseen duties in stride and came down smiling. Cheers from the passengers, and we were underway.

Stopped at Shark and Ray Alley, where the animals swarm with the expectation of food. Some people tossed watermelon rinds overboard, but the nurse sharks were more interested in each other than our fruity refuse. Saw large grouper, tarpon, and a school of spotted eagle rays. There was a short swim-through underwater cave that Eric attempted, but his flipper fell off just as he was about to enter, forced him to abort. Also stopped at Channel Cut, and a coral garden, where there were fewer large fish, but it was almost more interesting to see the complete ecosystem functioning together. Returned with our feet hanging over the side, enjoying the sunset. I decided then and there that I must one day own a yacht. Early retirement, here I come!

We had a nap after returning from the boat, exhausted from the swimming and the sun. Went to Habaneros for New Year’s Eve dinner. Excellent food and atmosphere; the best on the island. Had great ceviche, lobster stuffed snapper, seafood curry, and margaritas all around. Went down the main street to Sobre Las Olas for some live music as we tried to stay awake until midnight. The main party at the Oceanside Disco was far too crowded, and the music was terrible. Got cheaper beer and better service at the chinese market next door, and enjoyed the street scene. As midnight approached, the island’s sole firetruck drove through town, siren blaring. Everyone cheered, and a few fireworks sputtered toward the moon. Not exactly Times Square, but everyone was enjoying themselves and it fit perfectly with the town’s culture. Wished perfect strangers a Happy New Year, and walked up the beach toward bed, exhausted at 12:30.

Roadtrip Roundup

Here’s the whole trip, out west and back east, by the numbers:

– Miles: 8333
– Dollars of gas: $981.83
– Days of driving: 17
– States and provinces: 25 (VT, NH, MA, NY, PA, WV, OH, IN, IL, MO, KS, CO, UT, NV, CA, OR, WA, ID, MT, ND, MN, WI, MI, ON, QB, VT)
– Continental Divide crossings: 6
– National parks visited: 7
– Small animals crushed: 2
– Interdictions by law enforcement: 4
– Tickets issued: 1
– Going to look for America: priceless

Day Ten – Home Sweet Home, VT

Drove through Ottowa and Montreal, had an expensive dinner at a touristy restaurant, and made it through the border without being strip searched. Rain continued unabated. Got home late at night and collapsed. Good to be in my own bed after so many nights on the ground.

Day Nine – Parc Samuel Champlain, ON

Mr Sub

Mr Sub

Mr Sub

Crossed into Canada, and quickly at a “another proud canadian franchise” of Mr. Sub. They sure are proud to be Canadian. Hannah and I tried to remember the words to “Oh Canada”, but that’s about as far as we got after “our home and native land.” We added our own lyrics extolling the values of Tim Horton’s, moose crossings, and the word “aboot”. But seriously, there’s nothing in Canada.

It continued to rain, but we stopped at a campground in Ontario. The Canadian idea of camping seems to be closer to the Europeans, where there is one gigantic campground, with assigned spaces, and a “comfort center” with showers and laundry. But at least it was cheaper than a hotel.

Day Eight – Econolodge, Escanaba, MI

Wisconsin is also really boring, just with trees instead of grass. Had some of the worst food of the trip. Breakfast at a Swedish diner in Lindstrom; all I wanted was Lingonberry pancakes, but the griddle was closed five minutes before we walked in. Had Lingonberry-less french toast with fake syrup instead: less than awe-inspiring. Lunch at the Friendly Restaurant, where the potato salad was some unholy combination of German and American style: smothered in mayonnaise, but tangy as hell. Wisconsin is weird.

Hannah in front of the Logging Museum

Hannah in front of the Logging Museum

World’s smallest logging museum

Visited the Logging Museum in Rhinelander, WI. Learned all about Lumberjack Lingo, the process of hauling ice overland, and model trains. Reminded me of the old folk song ‘The Frozen Logger’, as sung to me by my 5th grade teacher Mr. Millstone. I found a great live recording of the Grateful Dead performing this at the Internet Archive.

Stopped at an EconoLodge just after the Michigan border. Had planned to camp, but I didn’t want to sleep on the rain-soaked ground. Ate excellent cookies at 9pm, and watched television late into the evening. Try that camping!

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