We are leaving Hanoi for a two-night cruise on Halong Bay. I’m very excited to get a little fresh air, a little less traffic, and a wider view of the landscape.
Our pickup at the hotel was a “limousine bus” with plush recliner seats. The highway to Hai Phong was smooth, and featured a huge new bridge over the Bach Dang River. We had a quick stop at a well-appointed rest area, with lots of snacks to purchase. I particularly appreciated being given a card with my bus number printed on it, so we dumb tourists aren’t left behind.
There was a bit of chaos at the cruise terminal, as we didn’t have quite enough cash to pay for the transfer. But we were met by a well-dressed man who instructed us to wait at a cafe until we were ready to board, and helped me find an ATM. Once we transferred to our boat we experienced calmer waters.
The Victory Star is very nice. We got a balcony room with air conditioning and heating, which we may actually need at night, and a shower with a view. The main dining area had an impressive diorama made of food, including miniature temples carved from carrots.
Once on the boat, we don’t have much choice about activities. Our first stop is a giant cave called Hang Sung Sot. Trekking in a long line, we dutifully shuffle from viewpoint to viewpoint, up long staircases where other tourists take breaks to smoke. This isn’t quite an unspoiled natural experience, but the landscape is spectacular, and the mass tourism is honestly understandable. The new global middle class can afford to go to far-flung destinations, and Vietnam wants foreign currency. They’ve built decent infrastructure to accommodate the hordes, and I am happy to be one of them.
In the evening, most of the day ships left and the bay felt a bit calmer. At least until the disco cruise started up.
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