Today we departed Homer and headed back across the peninsula to Seward. But first, some final souvenir shopping in town.
After packing up and leaving Seaside Farm, we headed back to the spit. Got coffee and delicious crepes at Wild Honey cafe, and I panicked for a bit when I couldn’t find my wallet. After thirty minutes of searching, I thought it was lost to the bears. But it turned out it was just in my underwear bag. We celebrated by going to a book store.
We had to return to the Salmon Sisters for more merch. Hannah got some XtraTuf boots to commemorate the trip and keep her feet warm and dry on days when she teaches crew on the river, and I got Ruth a cool water bottle encrusted with shrimp.
Then we turned North and headed out of town. We took a detour up to Nikolaevsk to see the Old Believers, a sect of Russian emigrants who fled religious persecution in 1660, and haven’t updated their traditions since. Lonely Planet recommended Samovar Cafe, where Nina Felsova made us good borscht and fireweed toast with tea, but with very specific instructions to follow on how to eat it. A friend who produced a documentary short on the community said she may not be a real representative of their practices, but it was definitely an interesting experience.
We drove back across the peninsula, stopping to try to see a native K’Beq interpretive site along Kenai river, but it was still closed. Finally arrived in Seward pretty late at our campsite, but the bus is warm and dry with a good surface to cook on. Hannah made cheesy broccoli pasta, and I slept under the table.
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